Skip to main content

Let the Framing Begin!

We started framing!  We hired a local company,  KeoCan, owned by Patrick Keogh.  They were keen to take on our job and we were happy to get started.  They will continue framing walls this week as space permits on the slab.  They are completing walls and erecting as they go in order to make space for the next exterior walls to be framed.    Having a poured floor to work on is a luxury to these guys.  Normally when they start framing there is nothing but a foundation to work on.

The exterior portion of the thermal envelope is pretty conventional.  It is composed of a 2"x 8" stud wall at 24" o.c.  This is as advanced as it gets.  Although framers here have lots of conventional experience, there is little to no advanced framing experience in the residential construction industry.  This is unfortunate since using less studs decreases cost and also saves energy and resources.    The battle in my head on this has been won...and lost....Using my house as an experiment for OVE framing would probably expend more energy in headaches than the energy savings I would gain!  I figure it is a win/loose....or loose/win situation which ever way you look at it.  Seriously though, I took some time to analyze the R-values.   The wall is composed of 1/2" spruce cladding, 3/4" air space, 3" of type I eps, 2x8 (24" o.c.) stud space filled with R31 fiberglass compressed to about R27,  OSB, R15 fiberglass batt and gypsum wall board.  The calculated R-value is about 49.88 according to this great little calculator: https://ekotrope.com/r-value-calculator/.   Changing the exterior 2"x 8" stud wall to 16" o.c. emulates an increase in the stud fraction for a worst case scenario and gives an R-value of 48.95.  The U-values for these assemblies are 0.0200 and 0.0203 respectively.    Another way to look at this is that heat transfer has been reduced by 98% or 97.97% respectively.  This illustrates a point.  Adding a few studs here and there to keep your framer and the local officials happy is no big deal.  It needs to make sense of course but adhering to local practices may not be the end of your energy efficient building.  If window headers require double jacks then double jacks it is...If there are any questions you should contact your passive house consultant.

The walls on the main level are all 9' high.  Since 2" x8" lumber is not a conventional wall building component, pre-cut lengths aren't available.  This means that 10' lengths have to be cut down to the proper size.  This leads to some wastage but since it's all kiln dried softwood it will make for great fuel in my Walltherm woodstove this coming winter.    Its not a great use of lumber but at least it won't be thrown in the landfill.

Photo 1-1 shows the several of the wall sections framed on top of the concrete slab ready to be erected.  Photo 2-1 and 2-2 shows a part of the West wall being erected.  Photo 2-3 shows the west wall erected.  This work is all done by brute force.  It takes 4 workers to lift a section of wall and brace it.   You can see the other wall sections in Photo 3-1 and 4-1.  Note the size of that window opening.  Its almost 9' across.  I can see why triple glazed windows are so important in a structure like this.  Achieving solar gains that outweigh heat loss would be a losing battle with a double glazed window.

Being in a windy location means the structure needs bracing, bracing, and more bracing.  As usual it is another windy day (June 20th).  Normally its windy.  When the sun comes out, it's windier!  The wind speed reached a sustained 50 km/hr yesterday.  Today the weather is forecast to be sunny and 26 Celsius.  The wind speed today is expected gust at 70 km/hr by 6 pm.  Bracing the walls has been a bit of a challenge since there are not very many places to brace from.  At this point keeping the slab free from that one load bearing wall makes sense from the point of view of the amount of space required to frame these large walls.    Besides, the one hemlock beam that will be required to span the living area still hasn't arrived from Nova Scotia.  It is not like we could move ahead with framing the second level until that beam arrives anyways.  Until then the workers have enough to keep them busy; and me too!


Photo 1-1.  Some walls framed and waiting to be raised.


Photo 2-1. The west wall raising.


Photo 2-2. The west wall drops onto the foundation anchor bolts awaiting to be secured.


Photo 2-3.  West wall up and secured.


Photo 3-1 The large living room window on the south elevation


Photo 4-1  North wall being erected.

Comments

  1. Hi David, Im starting my journey toward a finished passive-ish house. I am wondering about thermal bridging between your stud wall and foundation. I notice the footings aren't wrapped in insulation, and the exterior stud walls are essentially directly on the concrete wall. was this noticeable over the winter? is this a detail that should be paid attention to?
    Thanks for documenting this process!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. this is dependent on how the foundation is insulated and how your passive house designer defines insulating the foundation. It was determined that it wasn't necessary.

      Delete

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

Building the Air Tight Barrier: Door Flashing Details.

It took us a while to wrap our heads around the door details on my plans.  The main exterior wall is composed of 2x8s.  The rough stud opening was substantially larger than the door.  Because the walls are much deeper than a standard door frame for a 2x6 wall, the interior of the 2x8 opening was studded with double 2x4s.   Outside of these 2x4s, there is 1.5" of foam and another 2x4 on face which brings the door frame opening flush to the exterior 3" of EPS foam.  The brick mould of the door will sit against the exterior of the wall.  The ganged 2x4s which define the opening will allow the door to open a little further than that of a 2x8 wall.    With the door details finalized, I had to flash the opening as per the plan.  I specified the size/shape for aluminum sill pans and CBS Eavestroughing made them for me.  The sill pans have a kind of end dam to prevent water from entering under the under the stud opening should the door ever leak. (Photo 1-1).   After verifying t

Introducing: The Flatrock Passive House

So...after 8 1/2 years in our home, we have decided to move on.  Well, not right away! We have quite a bit of planning ahead of us.  With the likely onset of a 233% hike in the cost of electricity from Muskrat Falls (when compared to todays rate of $0.0972/kWh) we decided it was time to take energy consumption seriously before its too late to do anything about it.  The land has been acquired, the planning has started!  I am planning on nipping my energy bill in the bud before it becomes a major sinkhole in my pocket book. Upon investigating current building standards, I realized that the Canadian Building Code is below the standards necessary to really make a difference in energy consumption.  There are some standards like R2000 which can make a difference to total energy usage.  A R-2000 home can use up to 50% less heating energy compared to a code built home; if built properly!  A blower door test will reveal the truth about that. Now....Imagine living in a home where you have em

Choosing an HRV...My Thoughts....

So, which HRV do you want for your home?  This is a question not often asked by the homeowner.  When the house is built, somebody installed an HRV and that was it.  The home owner is rarely involved in anything other than turning a knob on the HRV wall control if they dare fool with it at all.  An HRV is probably one of the most important appliances in your house;  it expels moisture, eliminates odours, evacuates stale air from bathrooms, provides clean air to keep you healthy and it recovers a lot of heat that would have otherwise been blown out through the vent on the house.  It serves three main functions: 1.  Supplies the home with fresh dry air. 2.  Removes stale air and removes excess moisture. 3.  Recovers heat or heat/moisture For a low energy home we need an HRV that is as efficient as possible.  With the ventilation unit taking care of exchanging most of the air in the building, having an efficient one will pay for itself in the energy saved over it's lifetime.  Zeh