Skip to main content

To pour concrete or to not pour concrete?

During the design phase we played around with several configurations for the front overhang.  There were hip configurations and gable configurations.  The roofline of the garage played a large part in how the house would present itself from the front driveway.  What we settled on works nicely:  it is not too complicated and really connects the house and garage together in a cohesive unit (Photo 1-1)

The timber posts and beams played a large part in the look of the building facade.  Geometrically they are simple: spaced evenly across the front of the building provides for some uniformity in an otherwise asymmetrical structure.  Large timbers aren't common in Newfoundland...they call it "The Rock" for a reason.... So I looked towards the west.  After looking into shipping costs and lead times required for douglas fir (not to mention the amount of energy requried to ship the timber from BC) I looked towards our southerly neighbour: Nova Scotia.  Percy Delaney of Kodiak Forest Products Ltd. was very helpful and could easily accomodate our needs for large timber (Photo 2-1, 2-2, 2-3).  Eastern hemlock was readily available in the sizes we wanted and its bending/shear stress is better than SPF (spruce/pine/fir) so it was the logical choice.  These timbers will contrast nicely against the colors chosen for the building....which we will reveal once the clapboard installation starts in July.

Now, back to the the main focus of this article:  To pour concrete or not to pour concrete?  That was the question!  The foundation plan called for concrete filled sonotube for the posts to rest on.  Before we started excavation I had visited the Canadian Home Builders Association Home Show (http://chbanl.ca/event/34th-annual-home-show/).  It is a one stop shop for everything related to home building.  As I walked in the GoliathTech booth was one of the first booths that caught my eye (http://www.goliathtechpiles.com/).  These are basically a ground screw:  A long steel shaft with a helical thread that can be used to bore into the ground.  I hand off my plans to Ken Duff (our local representative) and within a day or so their calculations came back with specifications on the screw piles to be used for this application.  After several delays on my side the appointment was schedule and Ken pulled up in a shiny black GoliathTech truck (Photo 3-1). Ken was a pleasure to work with and is very accomodating.  He is patient and works methodically to slowly let the helical pile do its work.  As it twists through the ground it cracks and pops and twists some more.  Some times it diverges and Ken works to bring the pile back on target.  Rocks in the ground do pose some problems but there are work arounds. Once they are bored into the ground they are cut and toped with a threaded connector that has a variety of top plates meant for centering posts.  There is some flexibility with centering.  There will be more on this at a later date ie once we start framing the timber entry).  The nice thing about these piles is that they also provide uplift protection as specified in the 2015 National Building Code of Canada.  In a windy location like Flatrock...this could come in handy!


Photo 1-1 Front elevation depicting the heavy timber supports for the roof overhang.


Photo 2-1.  large hemlock posts and beams dimensioned to our specifications


Photo 2-2.  Timbers individually wrapped and ready for shipment


Photo 2-3.  Large summer beam for the living room.  This beam is 16' and pretty clear of knots.  It must have been sourced from a massive tree.


Photo 3-2.  GoliathTech on site ready to drill through rocks!!!  Newfoundland is called "The Rock" for a reason: Rocks....and lots of them!


Photo 3-3.  Ken from GoliathTech drilling the final pile of the day.  This was a stuborn hole.  You never know whats below till you start drilling.  He struck two 16" diameter rock 14" below the surface.  After digging them out it was smooth sailing...well as smooth as it can be when you're drilling through rocks!

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Building the Air Tight Barrier: Door Flashing Details.

It took us a while to wrap our heads around the door details on my plans.  The main exterior wall is composed of 2x8s.  The rough stud opening was substantially larger than the door.  Because the walls are much deeper than a standard door frame for a 2x6 wall, the interior of the 2x8 opening was studded with double 2x4s.   Outside of these 2x4s, there is 1.5" of foam and another 2x4 on face which brings the door frame opening flush to the exterior 3" of EPS foam.  The brick mould of the door will sit against the exterior of the wall.  The ganged 2x4s which define the opening will allow the door to open a little further than that of a 2x8 wall.    With the door details finalized, I had to flash the opening as per the plan.  I specified the size/shape for aluminum sill pans and CBS Eavestroughing made them for me.  The sill pans have a kind of end dam to prevent water from entering under the under the stud opening should the door ever leak. (Photo 1-1).   After verifying t

Introducing: The Flatrock Passive House

So...after 8 1/2 years in our home, we have decided to move on.  Well, not right away! We have quite a bit of planning ahead of us.  With the likely onset of a 233% hike in the cost of electricity from Muskrat Falls (when compared to todays rate of $0.0972/kWh) we decided it was time to take energy consumption seriously before its too late to do anything about it.  The land has been acquired, the planning has started!  I am planning on nipping my energy bill in the bud before it becomes a major sinkhole in my pocket book. Upon investigating current building standards, I realized that the Canadian Building Code is below the standards necessary to really make a difference in energy consumption.  There are some standards like R2000 which can make a difference to total energy usage.  A R-2000 home can use up to 50% less heating energy compared to a code built home; if built properly!  A blower door test will reveal the truth about that. Now....Imagine living in a home where you have em

Choosing an HRV...My Thoughts....

So, which HRV do you want for your home?  This is a question not often asked by the homeowner.  When the house is built, somebody installed an HRV and that was it.  The home owner is rarely involved in anything other than turning a knob on the HRV wall control if they dare fool with it at all.  An HRV is probably one of the most important appliances in your house;  it expels moisture, eliminates odours, evacuates stale air from bathrooms, provides clean air to keep you healthy and it recovers a lot of heat that would have otherwise been blown out through the vent on the house.  It serves three main functions: 1.  Supplies the home with fresh dry air. 2.  Removes stale air and removes excess moisture. 3.  Recovers heat or heat/moisture For a low energy home we need an HRV that is as efficient as possible.  With the ventilation unit taking care of exchanging most of the air in the building, having an efficient one will pay for itself in the energy saved over it's lifetime.  Zeh