Skip to main content

Heating Loads for the Flatrock Passive House

In the previous post, I presented some numbers from the modelling of my passive house.  Although, the loads showed, a maximum of 3.8 kW, that didn't include the thermal gains or the solar gains so infact, the total load will be significantly less.  

The PHPP software can only provide static numbers for a whole house and doesn't do any type of room-by-room analysis for heat loads.  The PHPP software showed that the total load would be 2.8 kW once internal gains are taken into account.  However, in order to ensure heating is distributed uniformly, a more conventional engineering heat load calculation program is used.  The table below shows the heat loads required to maintain 20 C inside when its -18 C outside:


Look closely...the numbers are tiny!  The upstairs hallway requires 22 W!, The main bath requires 83 W!  Even running a 100 W light bulb in that room will be sufficient!   However a light bulb is not considered a heat source so we need to explore options for heat sources, a way to distribute the heat and whether or not a couple of zones in the house along with natural air movement is enough to move heat from those zone sources around the home.

The largest heat load is in the kitchen/dining room.  At 700 W, this gives, 18.6 W/sq. m.!  In the master ensuite, we will require 155 W or 13.8 W/sq. m.  These numbers are so small that finding heaters are almost impossible.  Where will you find a 100W baseboard?  You won't.  This is typically why these homes use point source heat rather than huge distribution systems like ducts.   Point source heaters, a few in select areas, along with natural stratification is usually enough to distribute heat as long as the HRV/ERV is circulating air.

The average human body radiates 100 W of thermal energy while resting.   So two adults sleeping in the master bedroom on the coldest day of the year will heat a room like a 200 W heater.  The difference according the load table is about 49.4 W.  Unfortunately, sleeping with a light bulb on is not an option.  But if it were, it would make a great heat source!  It is very unlikely that heating will even be required on most winter nights in the rooms unless the temperature outside is less than -5 C.  A body in the rooms will almost be enough to keep it comfortable!

Next step:  Determine how to heat the space....Lots of ideas for my next post!







Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Building the Air Tight Barrier: Door Flashing Details.

It took us a while to wrap our heads around the door details on my plans.  The main exterior wall is composed of 2x8s.  The rough stud opening was substantially larger than the door.  Because the walls are much deeper than a standard door frame for a 2x6 wall, the interior of the 2x8 opening was studded with double 2x4s.   Outside of these 2x4s, there is 1.5" of foam and another 2x4 on face which brings the door frame opening flush to the exterior 3" of EPS foam.  The brick mould of the door will sit against the exterior of the wall.  The ganged 2x4s which define the opening will allow the door to open a little further than that of a 2x8 wall.    With the door details finalized, I had to flash the opening as per the plan.  I specified the size/shape for aluminum sill pans and CBS Eavestroughing made them for me.  The sill pans have a kind of end dam to prevent water from entering under the under the stud opening should the door ever...

The Attic: A hatchway, A Landing and a Catwalk.

  Attics are one of the neglected spaces in the our homes....an afterthought really.  Many trusses are designed the same way they were years ago.  There is no thought put into the lack of insulation above the top plate on exterior walls.  Heeled trusses were developed as a solution to this problem (https://www.apawood.org/raised-heel-trusses).  Adding a small heel enables deeper insulation over the top plate of exterior walls and helps prevent thermal short circuiting to and from the attic space.   It seems that heel trusses may become a mainstay for the future since new code changes now required attics to be a minimum of R50.  Large heels mean more blocking and higher baffles to combat the effects of wind washing on the thermal effectiveness of the attic insulation.  The key here is to direct any wind (entering the attic through the soffit) far above the layer of insulation.  The air contained in the insulation remains stagnant which ...

OSB, OSB, everywhere...

In the previous post we were installing the OSB air barrier on the 2x8 stud walls.  The drawing specifies that OSB be installed on the interior of the 2x8 stud wall. Once all joins are caulked with acoustical sealant and then taped, the OSB will act as an air barrier and will also serve as a vapour retarder. Before attempting to install OSB on the ceilings we narrowed down our game plan.  We quickly decided that lifting heavy sheets and attaching them to the ceiling using muscle power and a dead man support was out of the question.  Our local Princess Auto had a drywall lift on sale so we bought it.  We started in one corner of the building.   One person on a ladder guiding the other where to push the drywall lift loaded with a sheet of OSB worked great.  Our first sheet was cut so that the edge of the sheet could be nailed under the underside of the truss.  Using a framing nailer armed with 2 3  /8" nails was the way to go for attaching the she...